Chikankari is a tradition of hand embroidery that dates back to the early centuries, it particularly belongs to the city of Lucknow in the north Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. The white handwork cotton Kurta is associated with women from the Mughal era and is considered to be indispensable for its elegance and for the essential art that goes into stitching it.

The Art of Chikankari

Chikankari technique has more to do with embroidery where the artisans use needles and appliques interlaced with thread sequences to adorn the fabric. However, the term ‘Chikan’ is stated to have been derived from the Persian word ‘Chikin ‘ or ‘Chikeen ‘ meaning a type of embroidered cloth.

Hence it is a form of art that entails weaving designs, motifs and elaborate designs on fabrics mainly with white thread. This is done by creating prints of the designs on fabrics using washable ink that will only fade with time. Chikankari work is done in many forms but mainly is the art of applying the stitches carefully and patiently giving a soft finish to the fabric.

Types of Stitches

Linked stitches, also known as Backbone, aquí and Lahariya are employed in Chikankari, and they all add to it in different techniques. Some of the most common stitches include:

·       Tepchi: An easy stitch that creates a line outlining the perfection while progressively running along the design.

·       Bakhiya: This technique is also referred to as shadow work in which the actual embroidery is done at the back side of the material to give a shadow-like appearance on the front side.

·       Phanda and Murri: These are small stitches knotted on the cloth in a way that makes them creates some texture and depth of the design in a piece.

·       Keel Kangan: They can also employ running stitch, satin stitch, French knots and especially the chain stitch which is a looped stitch used to create flower-patterned shapes.

·       Jali: A type of lace interlining that resembles an openwork lace design on the fabric.

To be more precise, these stitches can be used simultaneously in numerous stitching patterns. It results in detailed and exquisite ornamental motifs that are functional at the same time.

Popularity and Appeal

White Chikankari Kurtis are preferred against the other Chikankari kurtas because they are light and suitable for the summer season. This dress is light and traditionally made of cotton or chiffon. As for the fabric, the fact that it is plain white but not washed out gives the embroidery section a touch of sophistication that can be worn for casual and formal occasions.

Chikankari kurtas are traditional kurtas that are popular not only in India but also among people around the world. They are commonly used in festivals, weddings and other traditional rites.

Variations and Styles

White Chikankari kurtas are available in diverse designs as well as different lengths which depend on the preference, the occasion, and even the height of the woman. Some of the popular styles include:

·       A-line Kurtas: These have a flared-out cut that makes it easy for all ladies to look elegant and comfortable

·       Straight-cut Kurtas: These appear more particular and professional in comparison to the preceding design.

·       Anarkali Kurtas: Fitted around the bust area and coming out in a flared skirt, these dresses are ideal for celebrations and festive occasions.

·       High-Low Hem Kurtas: This form is a modern version, which is currently in trend and among the most demanded options.

Apart from the above common varieties, White CHikankari Kurtas are available with different kinds of necklines, sleeves, and even ribs and sequins or beads to add charm to Chikankari kurtas.

Craftsmanship and Artisans

Chikankari kurta is made using a highly elegant process that requires a lot of craftsmanship. It is mainly a skill mastered by women living in villages and small cities. This craft is a high-skilled practice that has been taught from generation to generation and with the contribution of each artisan, it remains in trend till date.

Process of Making a White Chikankari Kurta

The concept of making a white Chikankari kurta is indeed a time-consuming and delicate affair that involves both age-old artistry alongside contemporary techniques. More striking and more beautiful can be the essence of white Chikankari fabric where the white fabric benefits greatly from the ornamentation as the embroidery brings out the beauty of the white cloth. Here is a detailed overview of the steps involved in making a white chikankari kurta

1. Cutting

The process of making a white Chikankari kurta starts with choosing the fabric that is usually light and airy; cotton, muslin, and georgette. The fabric has to be measured and cut with precision depending on the design that is required to be printed as well as the size of the kurta that is preferred.

2. Stitching

The particular pieces of fabric once they are cut are stitched by joining them to form the main body of the clothing known as the kurta. It requires sewing the lateral seams of the garment, and shoulder seams as well as attaching the sleeves to the garments. The line of stitching should be neat and durable, as the Chikankari embroidery placed over it will be of very fine texture.

3. Chhapai

After boiling the fabric in the large drums, the next stage is chhapai, also known as block printing. To open, wooden blocks with such rich stencilled patterns on them are painted with washable ink and the pattern is then transferred to the white fabric of the kurta. These are a pattern that the artisans will embroider over.

4. Embroidery

Stitching is one of the primary components along with the embroidery of Chikankari work. The fabric paintings are done through embroidery where specialized fine needles and white cotton strings are used to trace the printed patterns.

5. Washing

Once the embroidery process is finished, the kurta is given a light wash, to ensure the embroidery attached to the kurta is not harmed. This step is essential to wash out the ink that was used during chhapai and to wash out the dirt and oil if any on the fabric.

6. Dyeing (Optional)

To create a white colour Chikankari kurta, the dyeing process is therefore not usually a necessity because the clothes only have to possess the natural colour of white. However, if any additional colour detailing is desired, this particular step can be incorporated.

7. Finishing

Quality enhancement comprises many processes that give the kurta a polished look on completion of manufacturing. Laundered garments are ironed and cleaned up by removing lingering buttons or pins, tying loose ends and any other touch-up work done to make the garment impeccable.

8. Ironing

The last process of making a white Chikankari kurta set is to iron the kurtas after washing or sewing them. A kurta has to be clean, and wrinkle-free which means it is properly pressed and ironed to give it that smart look.

History and Relevance of White Chikankari Kurta

Dating back to several centuries, this art has a rich history that has evolved over the period. Let’s look at the history revolving around the creation of White Chikankari Kurtas.

Rooted in Tradition

Originally the word ‘Chikankari’ was taken from Persian which means Embroidery, it was brought by the Mughals in the 16th century. Another famous belief is that Mughal Empress Nur Jahan was an extraordinary lover of this workmanship. The white Chikankari kurta with white needlework became an indispensable piece of clothing among the royalty.

Chikankari's work is adorned with the pillars of the revolutionized tradition of motifs for example, flowers, paisley, and Geometric designs which are inspired by Mughal art and architecture. Every stitch, starting from the running stitch to the more complicated shadow work has a story behind its making with an air of artistry. The white Chikankari kurta as such represents an intricate fusion of aesthetics and tradition.

Embraced by Modernity

While the white Chikankari kurta has merged with the modern world fashion trend, it has not shed its old-world charm. Due to the creativity of the fashion designers, this art has been revamped by using different materials, trimmings and extra creation.

Due to its draping over the fitted upper portion, the white Chikankari kurta can be worn for casual events as well as classic rang fari or nawabi engagements. It can be worn with jeans for an iconic denim look, or with palazzos and dupattas for a more conventional outfit. White Chikankari kurta keeps its traditional form intact but still gets to be trendy according to the latest fashion trends.

Celebrity Endorsement

The Chikankari white kurta has recently become famous and that credit goes to the celebrity brand ambassadors of the designer piece. Established actresses such as Kareena Kapoor, Deepika Padukone, and Anushka Sharma were photographed wearing white Chikankari kurtas for both film promotions and events.

Many of these endorsements have helped to spread awareness or perhaps introduce this type of traditional garment to the younger generations. Even international celebrities and fashion icons have also followed this culture of the white Chikankari kurta and thus added a global taste to the fabric. The garment is complexly designed and looks very subtly racy, and has been seen on red carpet events, fashion shows, and for other purposes as well.

Rising Popularity

Currently, leading international fashion artists have used Chikankari motifs in their clothes and on fashion shows across the world ranging from Paris Fashion Week and Milan Fashion Week. White Chikankari kurta because of its beauty and vigour to embrace both the traditional and the modern facets has been placed in fashion boutiques and leading fashion stores all over the world.

The white Chikankari kurta may be seen as a popular piece of clothing with diverse potentialities attributable to its cultural worth, celebrity endorser and international acceptability. Moreover, the concept of sustainability and a shift towards handmade items as a part of the fashion revival also poses a strong influence on the resurgence of traditional graphics such as Chikankari.

E-commerce websites today experience high demand when it comes to the Chikankari kurta.  The beauty of the cloth also reflects the craft which is passed from generation to generation. Also, since everyone is now looking to make a change in the fashion industry to incorporate ethnic fashion clothes, the Chikankari kurta can be the best pick for them. Hand embroidering also enhances the beauty of the kurta apart from raising social appeal and promoting employment for skilled embroiderers.

Market Share Distribution among the top five cities in India

Although it’s a traditional embroidered clothing that is essentially manufactured in Tier-II or Tier-III cities, it has high demand from the metros of the county. More than 60% of the sales come from the major cities of India.

How to Style a White Chikankari Kurta?

Styling a white Chikankari kurta offers endless possibilities. Some recommended ideas to sport when you are wearing a White Chikankari Kurta have been briefed below:

·       Casual Look: It fits well with denim jeans as well as leggings for casual wear or an informal look.

·       Festive Look: They should complement heavily with jewellery and a vibrantly coloured dupatta and should wear traditional footwear for a function.

·       Office Wear: Clean looks best with straight-cut trousers or palazzos, and simple accessories to create formal office wear.

·       Evening Wear: For an evening ritual wear a White Chikankari Anarkali kurta and complete the look with statement earrings and heels.

·       Bohemian Look: As for footwear, it is best to wear jute sandals when matching it with ethnic jewellery and a long skirt.

Suited Fabrics for White Chikankari Kurta

The fabric choice for a white Chikankari kurta greatly influences its look and feel.

·       Cotton: For casual use, cotton is supposed to be convenient and comfortable to wear. The embroidery looks pleasing to look at on this evergreen fabric.

·       Muslin: Most are lightweight and flowy with fine fabric quality providing a perfect canvas for patterns and embroidery with durability in hot climates.

·       Georgette: Plumbs up a natural and sophisticated look that is suitable for business meetings and formal dinners.

·       Silk: White Chinkari Kurtas using silk as the fabric are primarily worn during festivals or celebrations. It also serves as a cozy wear during winter.

·       Chiffon: Chiffon is probably the best choice for anybody who wants premium wear with a subtle finish for both casual or special outings.

Draping Chikankari Kurta on Different Body Types

We examined the variations of the white Chikankari kurta outfit on various body types and how they complement or contrast each of them. Choosing the right style of white Chikankari kurta according to body type enhances the overall look:

·       Petite: To avoid looking or fitting strangely, accept only straight-cut or A-line kurtas especially if they are to give an elongated look.

·       Curvy: Flared Anarkali kurtas which hug the above-waist area and look aeration in the middle provide balance is perfect.

·       Tall: Try a variation of the Punjabi kurta length by the wearing of a long kurta and hems high-low.

·       Athletic: Let alone power dressing, fitted kurtas with the added detail of embroidery can bring curves and form to the silhouette.

·       Pear-Shaped: With an elaborate appeal on the chest and stomach area, kurtas with wide flare bottoms do help in cutting out unwanted shapes.

Maintaining White Chikankari Kurtas

White Chikankari Kurta is one of the most appreciable creations from Lucknow which has captured the attention of many fashion-conscious people, it requires regular maintenance as follows. Maintaining the pristine look requires careful handling:

Washing

It is best washed by hand in cold water and gentle soap to keep the material along with the embroidery fresh. Avoid using bleach.

Drying

Let it dry in an area away from direct sunlight for the clothing to become easily brittle and turn yellow.

Ironing

Iron the kurta carefully and switch the iron to a low heat setting. Gently cover the kurta with a thin cloth to prevent the fabric from melting.

Storage

Assuming that they are dried out, the best place to store them is in a cool dry area inside a cotton bag to minimize the chances of developing an off-colour and also to reduce the risk of handling them and accidentally damaging them.

Stain Removal

Remove spills and stains with a mild initial treatment to prevent them from setting in. For those persistent stains, call the cleaning services and have them do the job.