Lucknowi kurti
Inception of Chikankari in India
The exquisite craft of Chikankari embroidery traces its origins to the city of Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh. Over the centuries, this intricate white-on-white embroidery work became synonymous with the genteel sophistication of Lucknow.
When the Nawabs of Oudh established their seat of power in Lucknow in the 18th century, they brought along many Central Asian and Persian artisans and craftsmen. These skilled embroidery artists introduced many new crafts to the city, one of them being the delicate Chikankari work.
Over time, the traditional motifs and designs of Chikankari were influenced by local art forms giving birth to the Lucknowi style of embroidery. Some defining features of classic Lucknowi Chikankari are:
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Floral motifs like ferns, leaves, buds, vines and delicate petaled flowers
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Geometric designs crafted using white thread
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Sparse use of accent colors like gold or pale pastels
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Fine, intricate stitches like Bakhiya, Hool, Phanda, Murri and Jaali
Chikankari was traditionally used to ornament the humble kameez or kurta worn by both men and women in many parts of North India. The Nawabs of Lucknow likewise took a liking to this embellishment and employed the skilled karigars or embroidery artists to ornament the royal fineries. Over time, as Chikankari became synonymous with Lucknow, the garments came to be known as lucknowi kurta for women.
Today, Lucknowi Chikankari continues to be highly sought after for its elegant artisanship. From simple cotton kurtas to designer ensembles, Chikankari uplifts the beauty and elegance quotient effortlessly. Many skilled families dedicate their lives to preserving this craft that brings worldwide acclaim to the fashion heritage of Lucknow.
So the next time you admire a kurta resplendent with white floral Chikankari, remember the unsung karigars whose artistry links the modern design with centuries of embroidered tradition. Truly a craft that is history in hand and poetry in cloth.
Reasons for the growth of Chikankari art form in India
The intricate and delicate Chikankari embroidery art form has seen tremendous growth and revival in recent years. This revival is driven by factors like:
Ecommerce has played a huge role in reviving this cottage industry by:
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Connecting customers across India directly to Chikankari artisans and their products, especially elegant designs like white Lucknowi kurtis.
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Allowing small businesses and individual karigars to build scale through selling beyond local limits to pan-India buyers. Even international shipping opens up export potential.
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Providing convenience of home delivery due to wider logistics network reach. The lucknowi chikankari suits online sales were massive in 2023 in India.
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Digital payments systems overcoming capital constraints of small artisan families earlier dependent on middlemen for capital.
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Low overhead online model transfers more value to craftsmen who earlier got minimal share from price markups at each physical retail stage.
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Simplified online seller onboarding allows more regional sellers previously struggling with complex bureaucratic marketplace access issues.
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Direct customer feedback mechanism helps craftsmen improve and customize products like Lucknowi chikankari suits based on changing consumer taste.
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Effective promotion of the craft through targeted recommendations algorithms, SEO, and integrated marketing campaigns on ecommerce sites.
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Year
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Revenue (INR Crores)
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Revenue Growth (%)
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Online Contribution (%)
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2018
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172.8
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20
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25
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2019
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207.36
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20
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30
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2020
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248.83
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20
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35
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2021
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298.59
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20
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40
|
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2022
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358.31
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20
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45
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2023
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429.97
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20
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50
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Cities with maximum demand for chikankari art form in India
There are certain cities that have the maximum demand for exquisite chikankari pieces like kurtis, kurtas, and suits.
Lucknow
As the birthplace of chikankari, Lucknow itself sees the highest appetite for quality chikankari apparel and accessories. From traditional white on white to modern interpretations, women here love to embrace their local craft. Whether it is everyday lucknow chikan kurti or regal event wear, chikankari is a staple. Even global fashion enthusiasts visit Lucknow to source the original handcrafted chikan directly from local artisans.
Delhi
As the fashion hub of North India, Delhi has a huge market for chikankari from Lucknow. From high-end boutiques in upscale areas like Hauz Khas village and Shahpur Jat to streetside stalls in Dilli Haat and Janpath - lucknowi chikankari kurta and kurtis are ubiquitous across the capital. Their versatile palette ranging from classic whites to pastels, vibrant colors, and rich fabrics makes them perfect for Delhi women's varied styles.
Mumbai
Mumbai's humid coastal climate and cosmopolitan culture create demand for breathable cotton and flowy chikankari ensembles. Kurtis are especially popular for their effortless look. Young working women love to pair them with jeans or skirts. And of course, Bollywood's influence means B-town celebs and fashionistas love to flaunt exquisite chikankari creations at red carpets and events here adding to their cachet.
Kolkata
Kolkata prefers understated elegance for which chikankari is perfectly suited. Women here enjoy wearing chikankari suits crafted in light cottons and silks for slightly dressier occasions while also opting for everyday kurtas and kurtis to beat the heat. With strong cultural appreciation for textiles, Kolkata patrons cherish the artistic heritage of Lucknowi chikan.
Chennai
Chennai's tastes lean towards traditional silhouettes which chikan is ideally aligned to serve. Cotton chikankari kurtas paired with skirt mundus or south silk sarees allow women to enjoy its intricate needlework while adhering to classic sensibilities. Pure chikankari wedding sarees and gowns are also coveted here.
Revenue Growth of Chikankari in Major Cities (2019-2023)
As the demand for ethnic wear rises, chikankari remains a favorite for its timeless grace and elegant motifs. From lucknowi chikankari kurti to floor-sweeping anarkalis, chikan embroidery adorns the latest Indian styles. The cottage industry employs over 300,000 artisans in Lucknow alone, mostly women embroiderers supporting their households through this intricate craft. Their dextrous stitches are the lifeblood of chikankari.
Here is the revenue growth of lucknowi chikankari kurti from 2019-2023
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Year
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Lucknow (INR Crores)
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Delhi (INR Crores)
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Mumbai (INR Crores)
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Hyderabad (INR Crores)
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Bangalore (INR Crores)
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2019
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100
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50
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60
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40
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45
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2020
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110
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55
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66
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44
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49.5
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2021
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121
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60.5
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72.6
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48.4
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54.45
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2022
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133
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66.55
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79.86
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53.24
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59.9
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2023
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146
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73.21
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87.85
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58.56
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65.89
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Lucknowi kurti : Introduction
The signature lucknowi chikankari kurti features a fitted bodice flowing into a wider flare. And the intricate Chikankari embroidery, set meticulously in either white or ivory thread, lends an ethereal touch. The result is timeless sophistication complementing both traditional and contemporary styles.
The pristine white Lucknowi kurti, with its tonal thread work, creates an air of subtle elegance. The pastel shade kurti with classic Chikankari work adds fun accents to freshen up one's ethnic looks. The ankle or floor-length kurtis channel the style of Lucknow's royal courts for formal occasions.
The varied designs of Lucknowi kurtis ensure it fits right into any wardrobe. Either dressed up or down, they work wonderfully for festivities, daily wear and everything in between. Traditional techniques and modern cuts give consumers plenty to choose from, be it minimal embroidery or dense motifs.
Between the locally sourced fabric, artisan craftsmanship, and wide design scope - the Lucknowi kurti lets women embrace the unique handiwork of Lucknow's weavers. It reflects a legacy held close to the city's heart and cherished just as dearly by lovers of Indian ethnic fashion all over.
Detailed process of making a Lucknowi kurti
The making of beautiful and intricate Lucknowi kurtis involves several careful steps by skilled artisans. From start to finish, meticulous work goes into crafting these popular Lucknowi chikankari kurtis.
Step 1: Cutting
The process begins with cutting the cotton fabric for the Lucknowi kurti. The fabric, often soft cotton like mulmul or muslin, is layered and cut precisely to form the different pieces of the garment including the bodice, sleeves, and skirt. The perfect cutting of the fabric is crucial to achieve the desired fall and shape of the final Lucknowi chikankari kurta.
Step 2: Stitching
Next comes stitching the various cut fabric pieces together to create the basic kurta shape. The artisan neatly stitches the sleeves to the armholes, the skirt fabric to the bodice, and joins the side seams. Small tucks may also be stitched into some Lucknowi kurti designs to enhance the texture and embellished look. For a Lucknowi kurta set, the chunni dupatta is also stitched.
Step 3: Chappai
Chappai involves applying a thin layer of wheat starch paste to the fabric. This process prepares the Lucknowi kurti for absorbing the dyes in the next staining stage. The wheat starch mixture is carefully rubbed into the fabric manually. This is a time consuming stage but vital for chemically prepping the cotton.
Step 4: Embroidery
Now comes the incredibly fine and artistic hand embroidery, known as chikankari, done with white silk threads. The highly skilled karigars create intricate floral, foliage and geometric patterns on the Lucknowi chikan kurta fabric. Various embroidery stitches like taipchi, phanda, murri, jali, khatao, pashni are used to realize the delicate chikankari designs. This lends a signature touch to the Lucknowi chikankari kurtis.
Step 5: Washing
After embroidery, the kurtas undergo thorough washing and pressing. This helps to set the embroidery firmly into the fabric. It also renders a soft finish ensuring comfort for the wearer. Kurtas meant to remain white are simply washed clearly and starched. For others meant to be dyed, washing prepares for absorption of dyes.
Step 6: Dyeing
Traditional natural dyes are used to carefully stain the fabric giving the chikan embroidery a colorful background. Style of dyeing depends on the kurta - Lucknowi chikankari kurtis may be entirely dyed or parts spot dyed using techniques like Lahariya. Common Lucknowi kurti dye colors are indigo, crimson, mustard, magenta. This stage brings out the chikankari work strikingly.
Step 7: Finishing
Supplementary embroidery for embellishing necklines or hemlines is done at this point. Other value additions like gota, sequins, thread, mirror work may also be added for more ornamentation befitting the garment design. For bulk orders, women artisans do this fine finishing embroidery work.
Step 8: Ironing
Finally, the dyed and embellished lucknowi kurta for women are neatly pressed with iron rods to smooth out creases. Some starch may also be added for a crisp look. Special care is taken to not damage the delicate chikankari embroidery. The finishing and ironing prepares the kurtas for packaging and shipping.
Stitches used in Lucknowi kurti
The intricate embroidery and needlework of Lucknowi kurtis sets them apart. These elegant kurtis feature delicate and ornate chikankari embroidery done by hand using white thread on fine cotton or muslin fabric. Several decorative stitches are employed by master artisans to create the beautiful floral and foliage motifs. The main stitches used are:
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Flat Stitch
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This basic stitch involves taking small straight stitches of the same length to fill motifs. The stitches follow the outline of a shape to fill it in. The alternating direction of each row gives texture and dimension. Commonly used for flowers like roses or leaves.
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Satin Stitch
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In satin stitch, closely packed straight stitches are sewn side-by-side in smooth parallel rows to completely cover a shape. The smooth glossy finish resembles satin fabric. Often outlines shapes or used in jaali work.
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Herringbone Stitch
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Stitches are taken diagonally across a shape in overlapping rows at opposing angles. Resembles a herringbone pattern in fabric. Used to fill large areas and provides texture.
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Chain Stitch
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Interlocking looped stitches that resemble links of chains. Each new loop secures previous loop. Varying the height and width of loops provides dimension. Often outlines leaves or curved stems.
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Buttonhole Stitch
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A loop is taken around edge of a shape. Straight stitches cross from one loop side to the other catching loops to form knots. Creates a braided effect along outlines. Used for decorative fill of jaalis or dense fill of flowers like roses.
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French Knot
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Yarn is taken around the needle two or more times before pulling through fabric. It forms dimensional knotted dots on surface. Provides texture and shading in most motifs.
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Lazy Daisy Stitch
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A straight stitch creates the center then a loop is taken around it from top to bottom. Repeated in rows or used individually to make flowers like daisies.
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Bakhiya or Shadow Work
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Dense stitching on the reverse side outlines a motif leaving just the details like dots or center lines on top side. Creates a three dimensional raised effect. Traditionally used for birds or Jaali patterns.
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Dorukha
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A variation on the lazy daisy forming a star-shaped overlapping layered flower. Delicate dotted lines connect the star points. Used in panels or rows to create floral garlands.
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Phanda
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Tiny straight stitches clustered together in an overlapping circular fashion to form a solid mass. Resembles seeds in a sunflower or collective flower florets. Provides textured fill between motifs.
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Fabrics best suited for Lucknowi kurti
When picking the perfect fabric for a traditional Lucknowi kurti featuring delicate Chikankari hand embroidery, you'll want a material that is lightweight enough to let the needlework shine while still being durable.
Cotton is one of the best fabric choices for Lucknowi kurtas and kurtis. The breathability of soft cotton lucknowi chikan kurtis makes them ideal for India's warm climate. Cotton highlights both white and colorful embroidery well. From everyday white cotton Lucknowi kurtas to formal looks, cotton suits all occasions.
Silken fabrics take Lucknowi chikankari suits to luxurious new heights. Shimmering silk lucknowi kurta for women intricately accented with shiny embroidery threads epitomize elegance. Silk drapes beautifully on the body while providing enough structure for detailed needlework. Splurge on a silk Lucknowi chikankari set for weddings or other celebrations.
Chanderi, a lightweight sheer cotton-silk blend is readily used for chikan embroidery on white as well as brightly hued Lucknowi kurtis. The fabric's translucency lets the patterned needlework shine through beautifully. Chanderi lucknowi kurta sets exude effortless grace.
For khadi cotton Lucknowi kurtis, artisans use hand spun and hand woven cotton fabric. Khadi's breathability and durable comfort suits daily casual wear white Lucknowi kurtas featuring chikankari equally well as intricately embellished chikan thread embroidery on pastel Lucknowi kurtis.
Mixed fabric blends also work nicely for chikan embroidery on Lucknowi styles. Cotton-silk blends meld the fluid drape of silk with cotton's breathability for chic summer lucknowi kurta combinations. Viscose or rayon blended into cotton creates soft, flowing lucknowi kurta for women embellished with vibrant floral chikankari patterns.
Most treding colors for Lucknowi kurti this summer
When the heat is on, lightweight Lucknowi kurtis are a wardrobe staple. Known for intricate chikankari embroidery and lovely floral motifs, the airy feel of these kurtis is perfect for hot weather.
For an eye-catching daytime look, you can choose Lucknowi kurtis in citrus shades like lemon yellow, lime green, tangerine orange, or hot pink. These fun colors keep your outfit feeling fresh when temperatures climb. Pair a vibrant yellow short kurta with white palazzos for a modern twist on tradition. Contrast the brightness with a navy blue Lucknowi chikankari dupatta.
Deep jewel tones like ruby red, emerald green, royal purple, and sapphire blue also make stunning summer statements. A ruby red Lucknowi kurta set with intricate white thread embroidery radiates traditional bridal glamour. For an everyday jewel-toned look, don a mid-length purple Lucknowi kurti over white jeans, with a pair of juttis to complete the ensemble.
Going for graphic black and white is bang on trend this summer too. A black Lucknowi kurti livened up with white threadwork embroidery and borders makes a striking style choice for evenings out. Or choose a slim-fitting white Lucknowi kurta with black Chikankari accents on the yoke and sleeves for daytime chic. Lucknowi kurti with palazzo is one of the best outfits to wear.
Vibrant floral prints in lush tropical motifs also prevail this season. Vivid pink and blue floral print Lucknowi style kurtas offer a fresh take on the timeless pattern. Contrast with slim-fitting white churidars for a contemporary summer outfit. Large-scale blooms and leafy stems make these floral Luknowi kurtas eye-catching statement pieces.
5 ways to style Lucknowi kurti
Pair with palazzos
The flowy Lucknowi kurti looks gorgeous when paired with palazzo pants. Plain cotton or silk palazzos in colors like white, black or beige complement the intricate chikankari work on the kurti beautifully. Palazzos highlight the flared silhouette of the Lucknowi kurti. Try teaming a white lucknowi kurta with black, maroon or olive green palazzos.
Style with straight pants
Straight pants like cigarette pants or narrow trousers look smart with Lucknowi kurtis too. Pair cigarette pants in a dark color like charcoal grey with vibrant colored royal blue or yellow Lucknowi kurtis. Team your white lucknowi kurtis and kurtas with black formal trousers for an elegant office or evening look.
Fusion Dresses
Use your Lucknowi kurti to create Indo-Western fusion dresses. Convert kurtis into dresses by just adding bottom flared skirts or even flowing maxi skirts. You can wear such fusion dresses featuring intricate chikankari embroidery to weddings, festivals and outdoor events in summers.
Layer with jackets
Layer short or calf-length Lucknowi kurtis with stylish jackets and boleros. Contrast a black colour Lucknowi kurti beautifully embroidered in white with an olive green cotton or silk jacket. Or, team white Lucknowi suits featuring pastel chikan work with coral jackets for a contemporary, stylish look perfect for brunches.
Draped saree style
Drape your Lucknowi kurti saree style over trousers, churidars or leggings. It gracefully highlights the flare and intricate embroidery of the Lucknowi kurti fabric. Pair contrast coloured bottoms to allow the colourful artwork take centre stage. The saree draping adds a fusion touch to traditional Lucknowi chikankari suits as well.
So play around mixing Indian and Western elements with embroidered Lucknowi kurtis this season. The possibilities are endless for such graceful, vintage designs blending Mughal art with modern style.
Bollywood's love for Lucknowi kurti
The traditional Lucknowi kurti has become a staple in most Bollywood celebrity wardrobes. Known for the exquisite Chikankari embroidery and graceful silhouette, Lucknowi kurtas accentuate Indian ethnic fashion. Let's look at how Bollywood embraces this timeless garment.
Elegant and Stylish
From Deepika Padukone to Alia Bhatt, leading ladies are often spotted wearing the white Lucknowi kurta. The intricate storytelling warp and weft designs radiate royalty. The flared kurti with long sleeves flatters most body types. No wonder it's a go-to for media events and airport looks. The easy breezy cotton or muslin fabric also makes Lucknowi kurtas perfect for Mumbai heat.
Traditional Touch
Actresses like Priyanka Chopra, Kriti Sanon and Janhvi Kapoor frequently worn Lucknowi kurtas for festive occasions. The Chikankari work reflects Awadhi Nawabi culture and brings in traditional charm. Kurtas with badla, zari and gota patti embroidery paired with ghararas or shararas make for graceful ethnic wear. These can be worn on Eids, Diwali parties or wedding functions for that royal grace.
Statement Kurta Sets
Leading style icons Shilpa Shetty and Sonam Kapoor Ahuja show how Lucknowi kurta sets make striking statements. Pairing vibrant, richly worked kurtas with contrast palazzos or dhoti pants creates fusion looks. Actresses twirl for cameras in bright pink Chikankari kurtas with gota embellished dupattas and patiala salwars for signature statement style.
Colorful Kurtas
While white remains classic, colored Lucknowi kurtas also get their fair share of limelight. Karisma Kapoor and Kareena Kapoor Khan shine in pastel Chikankari kurtas in peach, lemon and baby pink for day events. Vibrant styles in royal blue, emerald and red make heads turn on the streets or at festive parties. The colored fabrics highlighted with white threadwork embroidery add playfulness.
Contemporary Twist
Gen-Z stars like Sara Ali Khan, Ananya Panday and Janhvi Kapoor give the traditional kurta contemporary twists for promotional events or airport transits. Short kurtas with jeans, crop tops under kurtas paired with joggers or oversized shirts layered over Chikankari kurtas show the versatility of the garment. Lucknowi work remains constant while changing fits and combinations.
Conclusion
The versatile Lucknowi kurti is truly a timeless Indian fashion staple now equally embraced by Bollywood celebrities as common folk. Deepika to Janhvi, leading ladies showcase the easy sophistication of white cotton Lucknowi kurtas just as flawlessly as jewel toned silk anarkalis for red carpets or festivals. Other leading ladies prefer vibrant colored silk Lucknowi anarkalis ornamented heavily with gota and zardozi for a glamorous traditional look perfect for festive celebrations. Gen Z stars add their own spin styling chikankari kurtas with cropped tops, joggers or oversized shirts.
However they choose to wear it - with shararas for an ethnic look or denims for fusion chic - Bollywood celebs demonstrate the remarkable versatility of the Lucknowi kurta as both an Indian wardrobe staple and high fashion statement. The timelessness of its fine needlework blended with an amazing design range makes the Lucknowi chikankari kurti a forever fashionpiece.
